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49 pages 1 hour read

Raynor Winn

The Salt Path

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 2018

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Part 2Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Part 2: “The South West Coast Path”

Part 2, Chapter 4 Summary: “Homeless”

Raynor and Moth stay with Moth’s friend as they prepare. They participate in a “healing” experience in which the curator lights an unnamed drug while the participants silently meditate. Moth falls asleep and has trouble moving when he wakes up. It takes two weeks before he recovers from the experience and they can set out. On the bus to the trailhead, they meet a loud American couple who are dubious about Moth and Raynor’s plan. The Americans are also hiking but using a service to transfer their packs between accommodations. When they arrive at the beginning of the path, Raynor and Moth discover that their guidebook has understated how rugged the start of the trail will be. A family passes them, bemused by their plans. They struggle to find a place to camp. They pitch the tent but worry that it will rip.

Raynor struggles to sleep in the tent, which is poorly insulated. She gets out to pee early in the morning and is greeted by dog walkers. Moth sleeps late and tends to be sluggish in the mornings, so it is late when they break camp. Raynor has a lot of aches and an enormous blister on her foot. The trail descends into an idyllic village. Though they can’t afford it, they get tea. A man asks how they make the time to hike the trail. Raynor explains that they are unhoused. The man becomes protective of his family and quickly pays his bill to leave.

Along the path, they stop to get expensive chips, seeking comfort. They come across a man doing yoga who, they learn, is blind. He offers prophetic-sounding advice about persevering, which is especially directed at Moth. The next morning, they smell because they have not been able to bathe. They pass through an area dense with rhododendrons, and Raynor reflects on the plant’s complex relationship to the UK. The loud Americans from the bus pass them. Raynor invites them to tea, but the Americans are committed to maintaining a specific schedule.

They get caught in the open in a storm. Moth has a lot of pain in one shoulder and trouble with a leg. They stop by a pub and order some tea. The next morning, while Raynor is relieving herself, she is greeted by the bartender walking his dog.

They go to a grocery store for provisions. While Raynor is opening her purse, she is tripped up by a dog lunging at another dog. They lose some of their money. The dog’s owner assumes that Raynor is drunk and calls her a “tramp.” They meet another Australian on the path who tells them condescendingly that they are only as young as they feel. Moth falls into despair, but Raynor manages to get him moving again when they see some wild goats. They set up camp on a Christian estate and worry that they will be kicked off as trespassers. They hear a Christian youth camp below and contemplate sneaking in to steal some food. Two teenagers who have snuck away from the camp startle them.

Part 2, Chapter 5 Summary: “Walk”

Raynor and Moth come across a pair of young backpackers out for the weekend. The girl mentions that she is ready for a shower, making Raynor self-conscious of her hygiene. Moth gives Raynor a spare hat to try to protect her head from the heat. Four young boys with very full backpacks pass them. Moth and Raynor descend into a town. Raynor asks for directions to a cash machine at the tourist office, where Moth is confused for a famous Mr. Armitage. They get supplies and spend some time on the beach, where they see a father scold a son and decide to leave. They pay to spend the night at a campsite with showers. Raynor realizes that she hasn’t had her period in three months and is probably going through menopause. They come to a village with an enormous bronze statue. They speak to a retired Gurkha who complains about the work.

Back on the trail, they admire the view of the cliffs as they set up camp. They are hiking through a large sand dune ecosystem when they come upon a military man who informs them that the military is practicing maneuvers so they’ll have to turn back. Eventually, the group decides to give them a ride and they catch a bus to a village. The pair plays trivia, winning a small sum when they come in second. This temporarily puts them in a good mood while they find a place to camp. The next day, they hike along Greencliff, famous for limestone that had once been used as fuel but is now used as a pigment.

The heat gets to them, especially Moth, who becomes despondent again. Raynor finds a stream and shade for them, worrying that Moth’s degenerative condition is worsening. They nap until they are disrupted by a local with a “pack of spaniels” who wishes them a “profitable journey” (70). Moth worries that he is dying. Raynor worries that the hike has accelerated Moth’s condition. They realize that Moth had not been taking the medication he had been prescribed for his pain. The medication is also an antidepressant. They spend a few nights in the same spot while Moth struggles with withdrawal. As Moth recovers, he asks what they are going to do when this is over. The next day, they try to make their way to somewhere to buy supplies, as they are running out of food. Moth tires easily, so they set up a camp and eat most of the remaining rations, believing that they will be in a town where they can get provisions the next day.

Part 2, Chapter 6 Summary: “Hungry”

In the morning, Moth and Raynor discover that the camp is overrun with ladybugs, which Raynor interprets as a good omen. Moth claims that he feels clearer and will try to go without the medication, though he is still in pain. They start headings toward Clovelly, an estate town owned by a single family. As they come upon a huge turkey among pheasants, Raynor asks if they are simply pretending that they aren’t unhoused.

When they reach Clovelly, they are informed that they’ll need to go to the visitor center or a pub if they want food. They meet a young man who works at the pub and tells them to go to the visitor center for a pasty. He implies that he is attracted to the young woman who works there, but she ignores him. He plans to enlist in the military. He tells them that the turkey is there because it draws out the pheasants. At the tourist center, the girl tells them that they are closed, but she says that, if they wait, she’ll let them have some leftover pasties she’ll have to throw away anyway. She implies that she is attracted to the young man they just met and that she doesn’t want him to enlist, and they suggest that she share her feelings with him.

Back on the path, they pass the estate owner’s home and wonder what his life is like. Raynor recalls that her mother tried to arrange a marriage between Raynor and a farm owner when she was younger, and her mother never forgave her for her refusal or accepted Moth. They set up camp on the estate and listen to owls hooting. In the morning, Raynor wakes up to Moth writing a thank you note to the estate owner. It is the earliest they’ve gotten up during their hike.

Part 2, Chapter 7 Summary: “The Corner”

On their way to Lundy, Moth, and Raynor have only fudge from Clovelly to eat. Two young backpackers, Josh and Adam, greet Moth and Raynor. They are from a group of four with whom they had crossed paths before. Two of their party dropped out, slowing them down. Raynor thinks of her children. Raynor suggests that she and Moth might carry on past Land’s End to Poole. The hikers have only a day left to hike, and they call Moth and Raynor “lucky bastards” for having the time to hike for so long.

Raynor and Moth pay for paninis at a hotel. The next morning, Raynor wakes to what she first thinks is torrential rain. She discovers that a dog walker has allowed his pet to urinate on the tent. They are now 17 days into their hike and eight days behind the timeframe outlined in their guidebook. Raynor is very sunburnt. She goes bathing in a waterfall and comes back to discover Moth listening to cricket on a radio that she hadn’t realized he’d packed. Moth comments that Raynor could lay him to rest here after he dies. They go swimming.

Part 2 Analysis

Part 2 contains some of the lowest moments for Moth and Raynor, followed by some indication that things could turn around for them. Thematically, Part 2 explores The Stigma of Life on the Margins. Many of the people they come across seem to brush off their plans as unrealistic or irresponsible, and Winn portrays the pair at their most socially isolated. A few times they are referred to as “vagrants,” as when a dog trips Raynor outside of a grocery store, causing her to lose some of the money she had. Winn records this stigmatizing language to highlight the stark reality of their situation. The dog owner, unwilling to acknowledge her responsibility in the situation, asks Raynor if she is drunk. They also quickly learn not to be too honest with their story, because when they inform people they are unhoused, people quickly withdraw from them. Therefore, while there is a rotating cast of secondary figures in the text, they are transitory, making Winn and Raynor the center of the story and highlighting the isolation that marginalized people often suffer.

As a pair, Raynor and Moth are still very much in transition, learning to deal with their recent losses while also adjusting to the physical realities of life on the trail. Though they did their best to prepare for their hike, they also have to deal with the reality of some of their decisions and things they didn’t anticipate. There are individual consequences for each of them as they sort through this transition. For example, Raynor neglected to pack a hat and quickly becomes sunburnt. Throughout the book, she will make numerous references to her peeling nose. This represents the constantly perpetuating cycle of marginalization: After she is sunburned once, she is more susceptible to further damage.

Due to Winn’s reflections on marginalization, The Salt Path is full of questions. They can be grouped into two major categories: rhetorical questions and contemplative questions. They serve opposite purposes. Rhetorical questions, which by definition have an answer that should be apparent, are used to assert value and pass judgment. Winn tends to use them when she is making political and social statements. When she and Moth run into a group of soldiers doing maneuvers, she reflects that they could end up dead in a war zone: “Young lives over before they’d barely begun, and for what?” (66). In this instance, the reader is prompted to infer Winn’s antiwar stance and her belief that the soldiers will have died for little.

Contemplative questions, on the other hand, are more open-ended. Consequently, they speak more broadly to the book’s themes and philosophical matters. They also present opportunities for critical engagement with the book and even invite criticism of Winn and Moth. These questions may be answered by the unfolding of the story, as when Winn wonders if the hike hastened Moth’s symptoms: “What if by suggesting this insane trip I’d accelerated the CBD?” (72). In fact, once he experiences withdrawal from the medication he was taking, his mental and physical health seem to improve tremendously. However, the questions may never receive a clear answer, as when Winn ponders a few pages later, “Is it human nature to crave ritual?” (74). In her quest to come to terms with her circumstances, this deeply philosophical question does not have a clear answer but does invite the reader to critically engage with the text and its concerns.

Raynor and Moth are also both dealing with physical transitions that compound their psychological moods. For her part, Raynor realizes that she is going through menopause. Moth failed to pack his medication. The medication is also an antidepressant, which partially explains his mood. As the medication was left in their van, one implied, though not explored, possibility is that Moth intentionally left it behind. When he emerges with a clearer mind and a commitment to staying off medication, Winn conveys the first indication that she and Moth are finally confronting their difficult circumstances. Until this point, there was little direct evidence that this plan was more than a way to stall confronting their problems.

A second indication emerges in Chapter 7, aptly named “The Corner,” when Raynor and Moth come across two people in their twenties. They came across the pair earlier when they were quickly overtaken by the pair in their previous group of four. Two of the men abandoned the hike. The fact that they had passed these young men highlights their ability to persevere when others who are more capable do not. Moreover, the young men describe the pair as “lucky bastards,” which stands in stark contrast to how they and almost everyone else they’ve come across views them up to this point. While they are hardly prepared to view themselves in this way, the fact that others can points in the direction of hope.

By the end of Part 2, Raynor and Moth have the vague outlines of a new direction, and Winn has begun to convey The Impact of Nature on Healing and Well-being. They seem more capable of shrugging off the negative perceptions of those around them. For example, at the end of a section, Raynor wakes up to realize that a dog walker is letting his dog pee on their tent. While she isn’t happy about the incident, she shrugs it off and goes about her day.

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