The Salt Path

The South West Coast Path, at around 630 miles, is one of the longest coastal paths in the world. Because of frequent changes in elevation, the numerous rivers that must be navigated, and the fact that the path is often fully exposed to the sea, it is also quite challenging to walk. The typical hiker takes around eight weeks to hike the entire trail, which is about 11 miles per day (“52 Day Itinerary.” South West Coast Path Association). Few hike the entire trail in one go, instead breaking the hike into several trips spread over several years, which is what Raynor and Moth do. Even fewer camp along the path, instead electing to sleep at B&Bs and other overnight accommodations along the way. There are also numerous day hikes and shorter multi-day hikes that hikers can choose from. The path follows the coast along the southwest peninsula of the island of Great Britain, from Minehead in Somerset at its most northerly point to Poole Harbor at its most easterly. Land’s End, Raynor and Moth’s destination through Part 4, is the most westerly point of the path and nearly the midway point.

The region has been settled by humans repeatedly since at least the Bronze Age, and there are rich historical and cultural associations along the path. The path is particularly associated with Celtic associations, something that has been used by local communities to promote tourism. Moth and Raynor also often joke about the number of towns that claim some connection to the legend of King Arthur. As elaborated in The Salt Path, various industries have also existed along the path and have left their marks. Portions have been polluted by government activities. Tin mines and clay processing have been prominent at other sites. Portions of the path have been protected by various private and public conservation efforts.

As these various industrial activities demonstrate, the region also has a unique geological and natural history. Some areas are very built up, which is true near the end of the path. When Moth and Raynor hike from the end toward the middle of the path in Part 6, they eventually skip a portion of it because it is so populated that they struggle to find places to camp. Other regions, such as parts of Cornwall, are much more remote and have drawn some eccentric figures. At one point, Moth jokes that Raynor is “turning into another Cornish sage” (175). There are numerous distinct geological features along the path. Notably, the Jurassic Coast, “England’s only natural World Heritage site” according to the Association, is a haven for geologists and paleontologists, as 185 million years of history are exposed (“Jurassic Coast.” South West Coast Path Association).